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Vintage Tablecloth Lovers Club
Making the world a cozier place…one table at a time
Need To Clean Some
Vintage Linens?
To start, we must share this disclaimer:
Under no circumstances does the club take responsibility
for any negative effects due to using any of these
methods to clean your vintage linens. These general
guidelines are shared with you as processes to try. They
are methods that club members have used and generally
agree work well.
First you must decide “What is good enough for you?”
and second you must gather your patience as the
processes do take time. It is good to take a before picture
of your cloth. You will be better able to judge when you
are at the “good enough” point.
Specifics: Determine the fiber content of your cloth.
Considerations in particular are the following.
1.
Is it 100% cotton or linen?
2.
Is it all or part silk, rayon or other early synthetic
fiber?
3.
Is it all or part polyester or acrylic?
For all types of fibers soaking is the key. A long soak in
room temperature water in a vessel (a five-gallon plastic
bucket works well) big enough to allow the cloth to
“slosh around” is the place to start. Don’t use a cleaning
agent at this point. You will be amazed at how much dust
and storage residue will come out. As the water darkens,
pour it off and add clean water. Repeat until the water
stays pretty clear. Watch to see if there is any fading color
or disintegration of fabric. If there is stop, squeeze the
fabric to remove as much water as possible and let it dry
flat.
If you are dealing with silk, fine lace, needlework, or
anything delicate be sure to line the vessel with an old
sheet or muslin first and use the corners to lift the
delicate fabric from the water. Do not kneed, twist or
push the tablecloth too hard when removing the excess
water from the tablecloth. This will further damage and
rip any areas where the fabric is thin. Make sure the
tablecloth is free from significant wear holes that may be
made larger by vigorous washing.
Squeeze the cloth as dry as you can and check for stains.
These will be old stains and spot removers will probably
not work like they do on new stains. We believe in “Take
the least risk first”. While there are many “formulas”
available on line, easily available “over the counter”
options include non-chlorine bleach products and also
Oxy-free products. We would likely start with a chlorine
and oxy free product such as BIZ first. Dissolve any
powdered agents in hot water first and then add water so
that it is just warm. Soak the cloth for a few hours or even
overnight and then drain and rinse. Repeating the
process one or more times often works well.
If you want to continue to remove tougher stains you can
move to the next level of risk, which is using an Oxy
product--BUT only if your cloth is 100% cotton or linen.
Understand you may risk some color loss. Using Oxy
products on the more delicate fibers like rayon or any
cloths that have the metallic dyes will almost surely
result in large holes making the cloth un-usable and you
heart sick. Most if not all members have been there and it
is not fun!
If you have the option, before using the Oxy products, we
recommend crofting. While hanging a cloth in the sun to
dry (usually with the brighter side away from the sun)
works well, we have found that crofting is even better.
This involves laying the wet cloth on the grass (print side
down is best) and letting it dry there. There is a natural
bleaching process that will remove those pesky yellow
stains (sometimes called ghost stains) and even some of
the more stubborn specific stains. This works on rayon as
well; be patient and re-wet the cloths as necessary.
Using liquid chlorine bleach: This is high risk. First check
for color fastness by mixing 1 tablespoon of bleach with
1/4 cup of water. Use an eyedropper to put a drop of this
solution on a hidden seam in the tablecloth. Let it stand
two minutes, then blot dry. If there is no color change, it
is probably safe to use the product. Use in the
recommended amounts and rinse thoroughly. If the stain
does not come out within 15 minutes of bleaching, it
cannot be removed by this method and any further
exposure to bleach will weaken the fabric and remove the
color. We do not recommend this for general stain
removal. Another option is to use the bleach pens on the
white areas of the cloth. Just remember the area must be
white, not almond. The bleach pens will leave a truly
white spot if the background is an almond color.
If your cloth is all or partly polyester or acrylic, the newer
stain removers may be your best bet. Old stains on these
fibers are often permanent.
Before and after soaking a cloth. The water can really get that dirty
and usually stinks too!
OUT DARN SPOT!
These guidelines are for those stains commonly found on
older tablecloths. For newer stains follow your usual
stain removal process. Always check for colorfastness
and for the age of the tablecloth before using any type of
bleach.
Yellowing/Graying
If it is an old stain, soak the tablecloth in a solution of
water with one half of a scoop of powered non-chlorine
bleach. Watch carefully. Look for signs that the dye is
colorfast. Soak for at least 4 hours, (more if necessary).
Line dry in the sun. Repeat the process if still yellow.
Dye Stains/Dye Transfer
Soak the entire tablecloth in a diluted solution of
powered non-chlorine bleach. If the stain remains and the
tablecloth is colorfast, soak the entire tablecloth in a
dilute solution of liquid chlorine bleach and water. Again,
test for colorfastness first and watch carefully. Not
recommended for tablecloths that were made prior to
1935.
Mildew
Mildew is a growing organism that must have warmth,
darkness, and moisture to survive. Mildew actually eats
cotton and linen fibers and can also attack manufactured
fibers, causing permanent damage and a weakening of
fibers and fabrics. To treat mildew, first carefully brush
or shake off mildewed area. Mildew is very difficult to
remove and will damage the value of a vintage
tablecloth. PRE-treat the stains by rubbing the areas with
a heavy-duty liquid detergent. Then launder in the
hottest water safe for the fabric, using bleach that is safe
for that fabric. Let the item dry in the sun. Badly
mildewed fabric may be damaged beyond repair.
Rust
Removing rust stains can be difficult. These stains cannot
be removed with normal laundering. Do not use chlorine
bleach, as chlorine bleach will make the stains
permanent. Small stains may be removed with a few
drops of a commercial rust remover, or by repeated
applications of lemon juice and salt on the stain. Do not
let the fabric dry between applications. If safe for the
specific fabric, try this old home remedy: boil fabric in a
solution of 4 teaspoons of cream of tartar per pint of
water. Rinse thoroughly. Rust removers that contain
hydrofluoric acid are extremely toxic, can burn the skin,
and will damage the porcelain finish on appliances and
sinks. Use as a last resort. Often these will work but
watch your cloths carefully and rinse immediately.
Scorch/Burn Marks
Scorching permanently damages the fabric. The heat
burns and weakens the fibers, and can also melt
manufactured fibers, such as polyester. If the damage is
slight you might be able to improve the look. Brush the
area to remove any charring. If the tablecloth is washable,
rub liquid detergent into the scorched area. Launder. If
the stain remains, bleach with an all-fabric non-chlorine
bleach. In past generations, these holes were often
patched with iron on patching. This is still an option
particularly if you watch neighborhood sales for the old
patching material. This typically came in colors similar to
your cloths and is usually a lighter weight.
Smoke/Odors
Some of the older tablecloths that have been stored for
many years have that "old smell" and yellowing. If the
tablecloth is not seriously frayed or damaged in any other
way, soak the tablecloth in a solution that is safe for the
fiber. Watch carefully for any signs of dyes fading.
Remove immediately if you see a green or red tinged
water. Rinse in cold water. Soak overnight, rinse, and
place outside out all day in the sun. Repeat if necessary,
but it should work in one treatment.