Glossary of Textile Terms & Acronyms
Aniline Dyes
Chemical dyes (as opposed to vegetable ones) derived from coal tar. These were developed for use in the late 1850s.
Appliqué
A cloth ornamentation that is laid upon and applied, usually via small stitches, to another textile medium.
Bark Cloth
A medium weight fabric with a rough surface that resembles the bark of a tree. Used extensively for draperies in the 1940's and 1950's.
CHP
California Hand Prints
Crash
A linen cotton or cotton mix suitable for kitchen towels. Better grades with softer feel and higher thread counts are used for tablecloths.
Damask
A fabric of silk, rayon, linen, and cotton or other combinations of fibers woven in jacquard weave with reversible flat designs. Double damask is more tightly woven and has an almost leathery texture.
Dyestuff
Dyes used for printing color on textiles.
Embroidery
Ornamental needlework done on the fabric itself.
EUC
Excellent Used Condition
Fugitive
An unstable dye that tends to run, fade, or change colors.
Ghost Fabric
A textile that contained a fugitive dye, leaving no color or only a little color. This condition is most often seen in some red and green dyes as well as pinks and blues from the 1850 to the 1930s.
GUC
Good or Gently Used Condition
Homespun
A very coarse, rough linen, wool, or cotton man-made fiber or blend in varied colors, generally in a plain weave.
HTF
Hard To Find
IOB
In Original Box
ISO
In Search Of
Linen
This is the strongest of the vegetable fibers and has two to three times the strength of cotton. It is made from flax and is the fiber taken from the stalk of the plant. The luster is from the natural wax content. Creamy white to light tan, this fiber can be easily dyed, and the color does not fade when washed. Linen does wrinkle easily.
Madder
A shrubby herb grown for the dyeing properties of its root. Madder is the basic colorant for Turkey red and the coppery browns of the late 1800s.
Marbling
A technique involved placing fabric in an oil bath to create a marbled effect.
Mercerization
This process, originally developed by John Mercer about 1850, was forgotten until 1890 when the idea was patented. It is a process that gives an increase in flexibility, strength, and luster to cotton tablecloths. Advertised on tablecloths produced between 1920- 1940.
MCM
Mid Century Modern is an architectural, interior, product, and graphic design style that describes mid-20th century developments in modern design, architecture, and urban development from roughly 1933 to 1965.
MIB
Mint in Box
MIOB
Mint In Original Box
MIP
Mint In Package
ML
Marlene Linens
MWOT
Mint With Out Tag
MWT
Mint with Tag, either a paper label or sewn-in cloth tag
Mordant
A chemical agent that fixes a dyestuff to a fiber.
NRFB
Never Removed From Box
NIB
New In Box
NIP
New In Package
NOS
New Old Stock
NWOT
New Without Tag
NWT
New With Tag
OOAK
One Of A Kind
Over Dyed/Over Printed
A tablecloth that was vat dyed in two different baths or stamped first with one color, then stamped or overprinted with another to create a third color.
Plush
A heavy-pile fabric with a deeper pile than velvet or velour.
Rayon
Made from cellulose, rayon shares many properties with cotton, a natural cellulose fiber. Rayon is strong, extremely absorbent, comes in a variety of qualities and weights, and can be made to resemble natural fabrics. Rayon does not melt but burns at high temperatures. Kenneth Lord, Sr., coined the word “rayon” in 1924 during an industry-sponsored contest to find a name for what was known as artificial silk.
Sailcloth
A generic name for fabrics used for sails. It is usually made of cotton, linen, jute, or nylon and is a heavy, almost canvas-feeling fabric. Favorite fabric of both Wilendur and Startex.
Sanforized
Trade name of a process for shrinkage control. Residual shrinkage of not over 1 percent guaranteed. Developed in the 1950s and advertised on some tablecloth tags during that time.
Tapestry
A jacquard woven fabric in cotton, wool, or man-made fibers. The design is woven in by means of colored filling yarns. On the back, shaded stripes identify this fabric.
Turkey Red
A specific shade of red produced from the madder plant. A colorfast dye, it was first developed in Turkey. Turkey red can fade to pink with use.
Velour
A smooth, closely woven pile fabric usually of cotton, wool, or man-made fibers, it is heavier than velvet.
Velvet
Silk, rayon, nylon or acrylic cut pile fabric.
VHTF
Very Hard To Find
Vintage
The Vintage Tablecloth Lovers Club focuses on the printed tablecloths from the 1930s through the mid-1970s as “vintage”. We recognize that many others define vintage as 20 years old but for our club purposes and goals we define any tablecloths manufactured after 1975 as “new”.
VTG
Vintage