Glossary of Textile Terms & Acronyms
To start, we must share this disclaimer:
Under no circumstances does the club take responsibility for any negative effects due to using any of these methods to clean your vintage linens. These general guidelines are shared with you as processes to try. They are methods that club members have used and generally agree work well.
First you must decide “What is good enough for you?” and second you must gather your patience as the processes do take time. It is good to take a before picture of your cloth. You will be better able to judge when you are at the “good enough” point.
Specifics: Determine the fiber content of your cloth. Considerations in particular are the following.
- Is it 100% cotton or linen?
- Is it all or part silk, rayon or other early synthetic fiber?
- Is it all or part polyester or acrylic?
For all types of fibers soaking is the key. A long soak in room temperature water in a vessel (a five-gallon plastic bucket works well) big enough to allow the cloth to “slosh around” is the place to start. Don’t use a cleaning agent at this point. You will be amazed at how much dust and storage residue will come out. As the water darkens, pour it off and add clean water. Repeat until the water stays pretty clear. Watch to see if there is any fading color or disintegration of fabric. If there is stop, squeeze the fabric to remove as much water as possible and let it dry flat.
If you are dealing with silk, fine lace, needlework, or anything delicate be sure to line the vessel with an old sheet or muslin first and use the corners to lift the delicate fabric from the water. Do not kneed, twist or push the tablecloth too hard when removing the excess water from the tablecloth. This will further damage and rip any areas where the fabric is thin. Make sure the tablecloth is free from significant wear holes that may be made larger by vigorous washing.
Squeeze the cloth as dry as you can and check for stains. These will be old stains and spot removers will probably not work like they do on new stains. We believe in “Take the least risk first”. While there are many “formulas” available on line, easily available “over the counter” options include non-chlorine bleach products and also Oxy-free products. We would likely start with a chlorine and oxy free product such as BIZ first. Dissolve any powdered agents in hot water first and then add water so that it is just warm. Soak the cloth for a few hours or even overnight and then drain and rinse. Repeating the process one or more times often works well.
If you want to continue to remove tougher stains you can move to the next level of risk, which is using an Oxy product--BUT only if your cloth is 100% cotton or linen. Understand you may risk some color loss. Using Oxy products on the more delicate fibers like rayon or any cloths that have the metallic dyes will almost surely result in large holes making the cloth un-usable and you heart sick. Most if not all members have been there and it is not fun!
If you have the option, before using the Oxy products, we recommend crofting. While hanging a cloth in the sun to dry (usually with the brighter side away from the sun) works well, we have found that crofting is even better. This involves laying the wet cloth on the grass (print side down is best) and letting it dry there. There is a natural bleaching process that will remove those pesky yellow stains (sometimes called ghost stains) and even some of the more stubborn specific stains. This works on rayon as well; be patient and re-wet the cloths as necessary.
Using liquid chlorine bleach: This is high risk. First check for color fastness by mixing 1 tablespoon of bleach with 1/4 cup of water. Use an eyedropper to put a drop of this solution on a hidden seam in the tablecloth. Let it stand two minutes, then blot dry. If there is no color change, it is probably safe to use the product. Use in the recommended amounts and rinse thoroughly. If the stain does not come out within 15 minutes of bleaching, it cannot be removed by this method and any further exposure to bleach will weaken the fabric and remove the color. We do not recommend this for general stain removal. Another option is to use the bleach pens on the white areas of the cloth. Just remember the area must be white, not almond. The bleach pens will leave a truly white spot if the background is an almond color.
If your cloth is all or partly polyester or acrylic, the newer stain removers may be your best bet. Old stains on these fibers are often permanent.
Before and after soaking a cloth. The water can really get that dirty and usually stinks too!
OUT DARN SPOT!
These guidelines are for those stains commonly found on older tablecloths. For newer stains follow your usual stain removal process. Always check for colorfastness and for the age of the tablecloth before using any type of bleach.
Yellowing/Graying
If it is an old stain, soak the tablecloth in a solution of water with one half of a scoop of powered non-chlorine bleach. Watch carefully. Look for signs that the dye is colorfast. Soak for at least 4 hours, (more if necessary). Line dry in the sun. Repeat the process if still yellow.
Dye Stains/Dye Transfer
Soak the entire tablecloth in a diluted solution of powered non-chlorine bleach. If the stain remains and the tablecloth is colorfast, soak the entire tablecloth in a dilute solution of liquid chlorine bleach and water. Again, test for colorfastness first and watch carefully. Not recommended for tablecloths that were made prior to 1935.
Mildew
Mildew is a growing organism that must have warmth, darkness, and moisture to survive. Mildew actually eats cotton and linen fibers and can also attack manufactured fibers, causing permanent damage and a weakening of fibers and fabrics. To treat mildew, first carefully brush or shake off mildewed area. Mildew is very difficult to remove and will damage the value of a vintage tablecloth. PRE-treat the stains by rubbing the areas with a heavy-duty liquid detergent. Then launder in the hottest water safe for the fabric, using bleach that is safe for that fabric. Let the item dry in the sun. Badly mildewed fabric may be damaged beyond repair.
Rust
Removing rust stains can be difficult. These stains cannot be removed with normal laundering. Do not use chlorine bleach, as chlorine bleach will make the stains permanent. Small stains may be removed with a few drops of a commercial rust remover, or by repeated applications of lemon juice and salt on the stain. Do not let the fabric dry between applications. If safe for the specific fabric, try this old home remedy: boil fabric in a solution of 4 teaspoons of cream of tartar per pint of water. Rinse thoroughly. Rust removers that contain hydrofluoric acid are extremely toxic, can burn the skin, and will damage the porcelain finish on appliances and sinks. Use as a last resort. Often these will work but watch your cloths carefully and rinse immediately.
Scorch/Burn Marks
Scorching permanently damages the fabric. The heat burns and weakens the fibers, and can also melt manufactured fibers, such as polyester. If the damage is slight you might be able to improve the look. Brush the area to remove any charring. If the tablecloth is washable, rub liquid detergent into the scorched area. Launder. If the stain remains, bleach with an all-fabric non-chlorine bleach. In past generations, these holes were often patched with iron on patching. This is still an option particularly if you watch neighborhood sales for the old patching material. This typically came in colors similar to your cloths and is usually a lighter weight.
Smoke/Odors
Some of the older tablecloths that have been stored for many years have that "old smell" and yellowing. If the tablecloth is not seriously frayed or damaged in any other way, soak the tablecloth in a solution that is safe for the fiber. Watch carefully for any signs of dyes fading. Remove immediately if you see a green or red tinged water. Rinse in cold water. Soak overnight, rinse, and place outside out all day in the sun. Repeat if necessary, but it should work in one treatment.
Aniline Dyes
Chemical dyes (as opposed to vegetable ones) derived from coal tar. These were developed for use in the late 1850s.
Appliqué
A cloth ornamentation that is laid upon and applied, usually via small stitches, to another textile medium.
Bark Cloth
A medium weight fabric with a rough surface that resembles the bark of a tree. Used extensively for draperies in the 1940's and 1950's.
CHP
California Hand Prints
Crash
A linen cotton or cotton mix suitable for kitchen towels. Better grades with softer feel and higher thread counts are used for tablecloths.
Damask
A fabric of silk, rayon, linen, and cotton or other combinations of fibers woven in jacquard weave with reversible flat designs. Double damask is more tightly woven and has an almost leathery texture.
Dyestuff
Dyes used for printing color on textiles.
Embroidery
Ornamental needlework done on the fabric itself.
EUC
Excellent Used Condition
Fugitive
An unstable dye that tends to run, fade, or change colors.
Ghost Fabric
A textile that contained a fugitive dye, leaving no color or only a little color. This condition is most often seen in some red and green dyes as well as pinks and blues from the 1850 to the 1930s.
GUC
Good or Gently Used Condition
Homespun
A very coarse, rough linen, wool, or cotton man-made fiber or blend in varied colors, generally in a plain weave.
HTF
Hard To Find
IOB
In Original Box
ISO
In Search Of
Linen
This is the strongest of the vegetable fibers and has two to three times the strength of cotton. It is made from flax and is the fiber taken from the stalk of the plant. The luster is from the natural wax content. Creamy white to light tan, this fiber can be easily dyed, and the color does not fade when washed. Linen does wrinkle easily.
Madder
A shrubby herb grown for the dyeing properties of its root. Madder is the basic colorant for Turkey red and the coppery browns of the late 1800s.
Marbling
A technique involved placing fabric in an oil bath to create a marbled effect.
Mercerization
This process, originally developed by John Mercer about 1850, was forgotten until 1890 when the idea was patented. It is a process that gives an increase in flexibility, strength, and luster to cotton tablecloths. Advertised on tablecloths produced between 1920- 1940.
MCM
Mid Century Modern is an architectural, interior, product, and graphic design style that describes mid-20th century developments in modern design, architecture, and urban development from roughly 1933 to 1965.
MIB
Mint in Box
MIOB
Mint In Original Box
MIP
Mint In Package
ML
Marlene Linens
MWOT
Mint With Out Tag
MWT
Mint with Tag, either a paper label or sewn-in cloth tag
Mordant
A chemical agent that fixes a dyestuff to a fiber.
NRFB
Never Removed From Box
NIB
New In Box
NIP
New In Package
NOS
New Old Stock
NWOT
New With Out Tag
NWT
New With Tag
OOAK
One Of A Kind
Over dyed/Over printed
A tablecloth that was vat dyed in two different baths or stamped first with one color then stamped or overprinted with another to create a third color.
Plush
A heavy-pile fabric with a deeper pile than velvet or velour.
Rayon
Made from cellulose, rayon has many of the qualities of cotton, a natural cellulose fiber. Rayon is strong, extremely absorbent, comes in a variety of qualities and weights, and can be made to resemble natural fabrics. Rayon does not melt but burns at high temperatures. Kenneth Lord, Sr., coined the word “rayon” in 1924 during an industry sponsored contest to find a name for what was known as artificial silk.
Sailcloth
A generic name for fabrics used for sails. It is usually made of cotton, linen, jute, or nylon and is a heavy, almost canvas-feeling fabric. Favorite fabric of both Wilendur and Startex.
Sanforized
Trade name of a process for shrinkage control. Residual shrinkage of not over 1 percent guaranteed. Developed in the 1950s and advertised on some tablecloth tags during that time.
Tapestry
A jacquard woven fabric in cotton, wool, or man-made fibers. The design is woven in by means of colored filling yarns. On the back, shaded stripes identify this fabric.
Turkey Red
A specific shade of red produced from the madder plant. A colorfast dye, it was first developed in Turkey. Turkey red can fade to pink with use.
Velour
A smooth, closely woven pile fabric usually of cotton, wool, or man-made fibers, it is heavier than velvet.
Velvet
Silk, rayon, nylon or acrylic cut pile fabric.
VHTF
Very Hard To Find
Vintage
The Vintage Tablecloth Lovers Club focuses on the printed tablecloths from the 1930s through the mid-1970s as “vintage”. We recognize that many others define vintage as 20 years old but for our club purposes and goals we define any tablecloths manufactured after 1975 as “new”.
VTG
Vintage